Imitation

Introduction

When it came to production, Europe was in a relationship of apprenticeship with Asia before the eighteenth century. In a variety of production industries – from dyes to textiles - Asian producers were far more advanced than their European counterparts. Yet imitation was not merely a European story. Asian producers also imitated one another.

Textiles

“A scrapbook of Indian textile designs” France, 1736, Etoffes d'hollande, 1736: Indienne de 9/8 de large: [échantillons de tissus], Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF Gallica), Paris, https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b69361909.r=%C3%A9chantillons+mar%C3%A9chal+de+richelieu.langFR#
“A dyer (‘chimba’ class) dipping cloth in red dye”, India, 1825, Courtesy, British Library, London, Add. 27255, f.183v, https://imagesonline.bl.uk/asset/9113
“Cotton Chintz fragments”, India, c. 1750-1800, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York, https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18481847
“Heirloom Textile (sarasa), Gujarat, India, Eighteenth Century,” Art Institute, Chicago, https://www.artic.edu/artworks/194710/heirloom-textile-sarasa

Several kinds of textiles made in Gujarat in India – patola and sarasa - spawned many imitators throughout Asia. Efforts were made by producers in Southeast and Japan to replicate the highly-sophisticated techniques of Gujarati weavers. These same textiles were also purchased in enormous numbers in West Africa, where they contributed to the rise of the Atlantic slave trade.

Factories

“The Fort of Geladria at Pulicat,” South India, Koninklijke Bibliiotheek, The Hague, inv. nr. 693 C 6 dl XIII, to. p. 27, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:AMH-6952-KB_Bird%27s_eye_view_of_the_fort_of_Geldria_near_Pallicate.jpg
“A military officer of the East India Company,” India, c. 1765 -1770, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O17543/a-military-officer-of-the-painting-unknown/
“European imitation of Indian textiles as depicted in ‘La Fabrique des frères Wetter,’ Orange, Netherlands, 1764, Musée d’art et d’histoire, Orange, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:La_Fabrique_des_fr%C3%A8res_Wetter_(d%C3%A9tail).png

Europeans were able to acquire a knowledge of Asian production techniques thanks to the foundation of factories, or trading posts, throughout Asia. These factories permitted European merchants to reside for long stretches in Asia and to observe Asian production methods up close. In turn, the factories were sites for the procurement and export of various Asian goods, which Europeans sought then to imitate.

Production Techniques

“View of the Mills at the Calico Grounds, Isleworth, 1795,” Courtesy, British Library, London (shelfmark: Maps K.Top.30.5.h), https://imagesonline.bl.uk/search/?searchQuery=factory
“Calico Printing,” London, 1754, plate XII, Courtesy British Library (shelfmark: 715.l.7), London, https://imagesonline.bl.uk/asset/149786
“A faience plate from Delft in imitation of Chinese designs,” Delft, Netherlands, Late Eighteenth Century, Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, https://www.europeana.eu/de/item/90402/BK_NM_11707
“Oval dish imitating Chinese powder blue gaze,” Britain, 1775, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York, 1926-22-475-a/c, http://n2t.net/ark:/65665/kq45e67e824-f5fc-4577-80da-08e9cf763924

For European producers the goal became to imitate Asian production techniques. Eventually governments in Europe put a ban on the import of Indian textiles in order to accelerate processes of imitation. In time, imitation became a means for consolidating import substitution within Europe and supplied one of the justifications for Europeans to insert themselves into the territories of Asia as colonizers.European imitation of Asian manufactures was integral to the re-balancing of the world economy toward the North Atlantic at the end of the eighteenth century. The Industrial Revolution was both a response to, and a reversal of, Asia’s preeminence in processes of production during the early modern period.